Buying Guide

What to Look for When Buying a Used Piano: 10 Things to Check

7 min read·By Roger · Updated February 2026

You don't need to be a piano technician to evaluate a used piano intelligently. You need to know what to look at, in what order, and which problems are fixable versus which ones should end the conversation.

Before You Visit

Ask these questions before spending time traveling to evaluate an instrument:

  • When was it last tuned? (If more than 12 months ago, the pitch may be too far below A440 to evaluate tonally — ask if they'll have it tuned before your visit.)
  • What is the make, model, and serial number? (Verify the age through manufacturer records — Steinway serial numbers are publicly available.)
  • Has it had any major work done — soundboard repair, restringing, action rebuild?
  • How long have you owned it and how was it stored?
  • Will you allow a pre-purchase inspection by my technician?

A seller who won't answer basic questions before a visit, or who becomes evasive when asked about inspection, is telling you something. Proceed with caution.

The 10 Inspection Points

These are listed in priority order — higher numbers are more expensive to fix if problematic, but many are also easier to spot without technical training.

01

Tuning Stability

Critical
How to Check

Ask when it was last tuned and how long it held pitch afterward. A healthy piano holds tune for 6–8 weeks minimum in a stable environment.

What It Means

Poor tuning stability usually means worn tuning pins or a failing pinblock. This is one of the most expensive repairs ($3,000–$8,000).

Can You Evaluate This Yourself?

Partially — you can hear whether it sounds in tune, but truly evaluating pin torque requires a technician.

02

Soundboard Condition

Critical
How to Check

Open the lid and look at the wooden panel inside with a flashlight. You're looking for cracks running along the grain. Then press gently between the ribs (the ridges under the board) — you should feel springiness.

What It Means

Minor cracks along the grain may not affect tone. Major cracks crossing the grain, or a soundboard without any spring (no crown), indicate expensive repair or replacement.

Can You Evaluate This Yourself?

Visually, yes — you can see cracks. Crown assessment is trickier but you can feel the difference between springy and flat.

03

String Condition

High
How to Check

Look along the strings at an angle with a flashlight. Check for rust — surface rust (light discoloration) is acceptable; deep pitting is not. Look specifically at bass strings where the copper winding meets the steel core.

What It Means

Moderately rusted treble strings can be replaced for $2,000–$4,000. Severely corroded bass strings or broken windings mean bass restringing ($1,500–$3,000 for bass alone).

Can You Evaluate This Yourself?

Yes — rust and corrosion are visible to the naked eye. You'll need a flashlight for bass strings.

04

Action Response — All 88 Keys

High
How to Check

Play each key slowly, one at a time, across the full keyboard. Listen for ciphers (notes that keep ringing after you release). Check that each key returns cleanly after pressing. Then play each key rapidly 5–6 times and feel whether the hammer catches properly.

What It Means

Ciphering (notes that don't stop) is a mechanical failure in the repetition mechanism. Some ciphers are minor regulation issues ($500–$1,500 to fix); many ciphers suggest deeper action problems.

Can You Evaluate This Yourself?

Yes — you can hear ciphers and feel keys that don't return. Subtle regulation issues need a technician.

05

Touch Weight Consistency

High
How to Check

Play a slow scale from the lowest note to the highest. Pay attention to how much force each key requires. The touch weight should be heavier in the bass and gradually lighter toward the treble — but consistently so, with no keys that feel dramatically heavier or lighter than their neighbors.

What It Means

Wild inconsistency suggests deferred regulation. Light to fix if the action is otherwise sound ($800–$2,500); more expensive if parts are worn.

Can You Evaluate This Yourself?

Yes — your hands will tell you if something is dramatically inconsistent. Subtle irregularities need an RPT.

06

Hammer Condition

Medium-High
How to Check

Open the lid and look at the hammers (the felt-covered wooden heads that strike the strings). They should be symmetrical and rounded, not flattened or grooved. On older instruments, look for deep grooves cut into the felt from string contact.

What It Means

Moderately grooved hammers can be filed (reshaped) for $300–$600. Heavily grooved or hardened hammers produce a bright, harsh tone and need replacement ($2,500–$5,500 for a full set).

Can You Evaluate This Yourself?

Yes — you can see hammer grooves and flattening by opening the lid.

07

Pedal Function

Medium
How to Check

Press each pedal fully while playing. The sustain (right) pedal should produce a gradual increase in resonance as you press it deeper. It should operate silently. The una corda (left) pedal should shift the action slightly. The sostenuto (middle) pedal should hold only notes pressed at the moment of depression.

What It Means

Noisy, sticking, or non-functional pedals are usually minor repairs ($200–$600). But investigate why — sometimes pedal problems indicate more serious structural issues.

Can You Evaluate This Yourself?

Yes — you can evaluate all three pedals yourself.

08

Key Level and Condition

Medium
How to Check

Stand back and look along the keyboard from the side. All keys should be at the same height. Then examine the keytops — they should be chip-free, not yellowed excessively, and without significant wear divots.

What It Means

Uneven key level is a regulation issue. Missing chips or severely worn keytops may need replacement ($1,500–$3,500 for new keytops). Don't confuse ivory yellowing (normal and desirable) with damage.

Can You Evaluate This Yourself?

Yes — both key level and keytop condition are visible without technical training.

09

Case and Structure

Medium
How to Check

Examine the veneer closely around the legs, case seams, and lid. Look for lifting veneer, cracks in the case, or legs that wobble when the piano is slightly shifted. Check that all leg joints are tight.

What It Means

Minor veneer lifting is cosmetically annoying but relatively inexpensive to repair. Loose leg joints or structural cracks in the case are serious — they can indicate improper moving or storage.

Can You Evaluate This Yourself?

Yes — you can see veneer condition and feel wobble in legs.

10

Tonal Balance

Contextual
How to Check

Play the instrument fully, listening for tonal evenness across registers. Notes in the low treble (around middle C up to the second F) should not be dramatically different in character from bass or high treble. Listen for dead notes, wolf tones, or notes that buzz.

What It Means

Tonal imbalance can be addressed through voicing (less expensive) or indicates soundboard or string issues (more expensive). Buzzes often indicate loose internal components — easily fixed.

Can You Evaluate This Yourself?

Gross tonal problems, yes. Subtle voicing issues need a trained ear.

What You Can Do vs. What Needs an Expert

You Can Evaluate

  • Ciphers (stuck notes that keep ringing)
  • Keys that don't return
  • Visible soundboard cracks
  • String rust (visible with flashlight)
  • Hammer groove depth (visible)
  • Key level and keytop condition
  • Pedal noise and function
  • Case and veneer condition
  • Gross tonal imbalance or buzzes
  • Overall cleanliness and care

Needs a Registered Piano Technician

  • Tuning pin torque (pinblock condition)
  • Soundboard crown measurement
  • Bridge condition and pin seating
  • Plate crack inspection
  • Action regulation precision
  • Voicing quality assessment
  • Structural rib condition under board
  • Subtle tonal anomalies
  • Accurate repair cost estimates
  • Overall value assessment

Your goal on a first visit: use your own evaluation to decide whether the instrument is worth the cost of an RPT inspection ($150–$300). If what you find is not an immediate deal-breaker, bring in the technician before committing.

The Test Play

Before you play repertoire, do a systematic test:

  1. 1.Play each of the 88 keys slowly, one at a time. Listen for ciphers. Feel for keys that don't return.
  2. 2.Play a slow chromatic scale from bottom to top. Listen for tonal consistency. Note dead spots or dramatically different notes.
  3. 3.Play a loud chord in the bass and listen to it decay. The sound should sustain cleanly, not buzz or rattle.
  4. 4.Play rapid passages in the middle register. Feel whether the action is responsive and consistent.
  5. 5.Test all three pedals while playing — noise, sticking, and effect.
  6. 6.Play something you know well. This is the final test: does the piano feel and sound like something you would want to practice on?

Three Deal-Breaker Red Flags

Most problems are fixable at some cost. These three are different — they indicate structural failure or near-structural failure that makes a pre-owned instrument uneconomical to repair:

Piano that cannot hold tune for more than a few weeks

This almost always indicates a failing pinblock. Replacement costs $3,000–$8,000 and requires removing the plate — major surgery. Unless the price reflects this, walk away.

Walk away unless price reflects repair cost

Collapsed soundboard (no crown, flat or concave)

A soundboard without crown has lost its acoustic function. It may play, but it won't have the tonal depth or projection that makes a fine piano worth owning. Replacement is $6,000–$14,000 installed.

Walk away unless the price is significantly below market

Seller refuses pre-purchase inspection by your technician

There is no legitimate reason to refuse an independent inspection. The only reason to refuse is that the seller knows something they don't want discovered. This is the clearest signal in the entire buying process.

Always walk away

Next Steps After Your Visit

If your first-pass evaluation doesn't reveal any deal-breakers, the path forward is:

  1. 1.Hire a Registered Piano Technician (find one through the Piano Technicians Guild) to perform a full pre-purchase inspection. Budget $150–$300.
  2. 2.Use the inspection report to understand all deferred maintenance and its estimated cost. This becomes your negotiating basis.
  3. 3.If the technician finds no major issues and the price is at or below market for the condition, proceed. If there's significant deferred maintenance, request a price adjustment or walk away.
  4. 4.Budget for delivery. Professional piano moving costs $800–$2,500 depending on distance and access. This is not optional.
  5. 5.Plan your first tuning within 2–4 weeks of delivery, once the piano has adjusted to its new environment.
Ready to move forward?

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